On Loss and Absence: Textiles of Mourning and Survival at the Art Institute of Chicago

“Memorial Pendant” created during 1800 in England. Eye miniatures like these were sometimes used as memorials, also known as tear jewelry.
Credit: Elizabeth H. Rosenak, Art Institute of Chicago

In Chicago, threads of memory and grief are woven over time in a new exhibit that started in September 2025. Titled “On Loss and Absence: Textiles of Mourning and Survival,” it examines how people have used art, specifically fabric art, to process grief, honor memories, and heal from personal and cultural trauma.

The exhibit at the Art Institute of Chicago features more than 100 works, spanning from ancient to modern, all centered on the themes of remembrance and mourning. These textiles serve as intriguing vessels for resilience across diverse cultures and times.

“Mujeres”
Credit: Carina Yepez, Art Institute of Chicago

Among the more contemporary works, Chicago fiber artist Carina Yepez’s 2023 piece, “Mujeres (Women),” stands out in particular. It’s a noteworthy homage to inherited traditions and collective memory among the women in Guanajuato, Mexico. The work was created in collaboration with her mother, Lula Yepez, and aunt, Maricela Herrera. She turned a vintage photograph of the seamstresses in her community into a textile memorial. She incorporates sewing and layered appliqué into her quilts and is recognized for her floral motifs.

In “Mujeres,” Yepez blends photography and quilting techniques to honor the women of her past who sewed together. In fact, she herself learned to sew from her mother and grandmother, and the piece serves as a celebration of her culture’s matriarchs.

“Amalia M.H., who sits at the group’s center, shared this image with me,” Yepez explained of the piece’s original photograph. “She informed me that she was the final elder remaining in the group. These powerful women have forged a lasting legacy with their unwavering strength and unrelenting determination.”

“Mourning Sampler” dated approximately 1810.
Credit: Art Institute of Chicago

Another stunning piece in the exhibit includes a “Mourning Sampler,” dated approximately 1810. According to the AIC, “it is likely that it was stitched by either Mary or Louise (Louisa) Winsor, daughters of Mary Bullock Winsor (1767-1816) and Nicholas Winsor (1767-1797).” 

The piece’s style suggests that it was likely created at Mary Balch’s School in Rhode Island, and it serves as one of the earliest embroidery memorials produced at the aforementioned institution. The piece includes advanced techniques, including silk-on-silk embroidery. Trumpeting angels and other similar elements indicate the piece was meant to express fondness and memory.

On Loss and Absence is organized into four themes titled Death and Mourning, Transition of Realms, Care and Repair, and Resistance and Survival. It was curated by four artists, professors, and curators from the School of the AIC’s Fiber and Material Studies department: Isaac Facio, Nneka Kai, L Vinebaum, and Anne Wilson. 

Other pieces include funeral hangings, burial clothes, and contemporary fiber art. It showcases how textiles can serve as agents of cultural memory and mourning. On Loss and Absence is on display through March 15, 2026.